OK, so let me guess: You’ve been coping with breakouts, or redness, or these annoying darkish spots that simply gained’t fade – and all of a sudden each product you Google has both azelaic acid or niacinamide in it.
Typically each. Typically blended with, like, snail slime and fermented mushrooms. This complete azelaic acid VS niacinamide debate is so complicated! And now you’re sitting there pondering:
- Wait… do I would like each?
- Are they secretly the identical factor?
- Which one is really gonna repair my pores and skin?
- Why does each influencer act like each are magic however by no means clarify what the hell they do?
I received you.
That is all you could find out about what azelaic acid and niacinamide really do, how they’re totally different, if you should utilize them collectively with out your pores and skin flipping out, and which one to incorporate in your skincare routine:
Azelaic Acid: What It Is And How Does It Profit Pores and skin?
Azelaic acid feels like one thing that will burn a gap by way of your countertop, however hear me out – it’s really weirdly light. Azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid (don’t fear, that’s only a science-y manner of claiming it’s it’s manner milder than Glycolic Acid or Salicylic Acid). It’s naturally present in grains like barley and wheat, and your personal pores and skin even produces it.
However the true skincare magic occurs in lab-made, stabilized variations, normally in 10% or 15% concentrations. And whereas it doesn’t get as a lot hype as, say, retinol or vitamin C, dermatologists have been quietly obsessive about it for many years. Particularly for zits. And rosacea. And hyperpigmentation. And post-inflammatory redness. Mainly, in case your pores and skin goes by way of one thing? Azelaic acid is like, “I received you.”
Advantages Of Azelaic Acid
- It fights zits gently: Azelaic acid kills the micro organism that causes zits. However in contrast to harsher actives ( you, benzoyl peroxide), it doesn’t dry your pores and skin out or ship your barrier right into a full-blown meltdown. Bonus: it additionally gently exfoliates, so it helps unclog pores too — however with out the uncooked, flaky aftermath. Research say that 20% azelaic acid cream is simply as efficient as 5% benzoyl peroxide and 0.05% tretinoin — however manner much less irritating.
- It helps with post-acne marks and hyperpigmentation: Azelaic acid blocks tyrosinase, the enzyme that helps produce melanin, which implies it actively fades darkish spots, melasma, and PIH (post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation). It’s like a bit of pores and skin tone editor in a tube. Azelaic acid is clinically confirmed to cut back melasma and pigment irregularities, particularly when mixed with different topicals like glycolic acid or retinoids.
- It calms redness and irritation: Obtained rosacea or simply super-sensitive pores and skin that turns pink when the wind blows? Azelaic acid is your new finest buddy. It has anti-inflammatory properties that scale back irritation, calm seen blood vessels, and assist decrease these small pink bumps that nothing else appears to the touch.
- It gently exfoliates: Azelaic acid quickens pores and skin cell turnover, which helps with texture, bumps, dullness, and clogged pores. However in contrast to AHAs or BHAs, it’s not going to go away your pores and skin pink and uncooked. You get the smoothing advantages with out the sting.
- Secure for pregnant ladies: It’s one of many only a few zits and skin-lightening components that’s protected throughout being pregnant and breastfeeding.
Azelaic Acid Facet Results
Okay, so this half’s vital.Despite the fact that azelaic acid is technically light, it can be annoying at first. Commonest reactions (particularly within the first few weeks):
- Tingling or gentle stinging
- Slightly itchiness
- Dryness or flakiness
- Slight purging (in case your pores and skin is congested)
Greatest Azelaic Acid Picks
Listed below are one of the best azelaic acid merchandise to deal with any pores and skin circumstances you’ll have:
- Blemicalm Azelaic Acid 15% Clarifying Serum £26.00): Loaded with 15% Azelaic acid and colloidal oatmeal, it helps deal with zits, soothe irritations, and lighten darkish spots. Out there at Facetheory
- Paula’s Selection 10% Azelaic Acid Booster ($36.00): It features a contact of Salicylic Acid to unclog pores too. Out there at Cult Magnificence, Paula’s Selection, and SpaceNK
- The Strange Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% ($12.20): A easy, no-frills components that simply works with out breaking the financial institution. Out there at Magnificence Bay, Cult Magnificence, The Strange, and Ulta
Cease losing your money and time on stuff that doesn’t work. Click on on the picture under to obtain “Skincare That Works” and eventually get your finest pores and skin day – every single day.
Niacinamide: What It Is And How Does It Profit Pores and skin?
Niacinamide is a type of vitamin B (a elaborate title for Vitamin B3, to be actual). That’s it. Nothing scary. It’s not an acid, it’s not exfoliating, and it’s not going to all of a sudden soften your face off. It’s really one of many gentlest, most versatile components on the market — which is why skincare manufacturers hold placing it in all the things.
Advantages Of Niacinamide
Right here’s what niacinamide does (backed by science and by each skincare nerd who’s ever gone on a Reddit deep dive):
- 1. It calms down pores and skin irritation: Obtained redness? Blotchiness? Indignant, reactive pores and skin that flares up the second you attempt one thing new? Niacinamide is just like the buddy who talks you off the ledge. It reduces irritation and helps soothe the drama. That is particularly useful for zits, rosacea, and simply normal pores and skin crankiness.
- It strengthens your pores and skin barrier: Consider your pores and skin barrier because the safety guard that retains the good things (hydration) in and the unhealthy stuff (air pollution, micro organism, irritation) out. Niacinamide helps rebuild and reinforce that barrier by boosting ceramide production — and meaning your pores and skin will get stronger, more healthy, and fewer more likely to freak out when the climate modifications otherwise you attempt a brand new product.
- It helps with hydration: No, it’s not a moisturizer. However when your barrier is stronger and happier, your pores and skin holds onto moisture manner higher. Pair niacinamide with an excellent hyaluronic acid or moisturizer, and also you’ve received a glowy, bouncy state of affairs happening.
- It reduces uneven pores and skin tone and fades hyperpigmentation: In the event you’ve received leftover zits marks or normal unevenness, niacinamide might help fade that slowly over time. It doesn’t bleach your pores and skin (we do not do this right here), however it reduces how a lot melanin will get transferred to the highest layers – which implies darkish spots fade extra gently and evenly. Scientific research have proven that 5% niacinamide can visibly enhance hyperpigmentation and pores and skin tone after simply 4 weeks.
- It regulates oil with out drying you out: In the event you’re oily however delicate (aka the combo-skin nightmare), niacinamide is chef’s kiss. It helps scale back how a lot oil your pores and skin produces, so that you look much less shiny with out over-stripping your face like a harsh cleanser would.
- It would possibly scale back pore dimension: This one’s a bit of controversial. Niacinamide doesn’t technically “shrink” pores (nothing actually can), however by enhancing pores and skin texture, calming irritation, and decreasing oil, your pores look smaller and fewer noticeable. And truthfully? That’s adequate for many of us.
- It really works for all pores and skin kind: Whether or not you have got dry pores and skin, oily pores and skin, regular pores and skin, mixture pores and skin, or delicate pores and skin, Niacinamide’s received you coated. It moisturises and soothes with out leaving your pores and skin a greasy mess.
Enjoyable truth: NOTHING decreased my pores higher and quicker than Paula’s Selection 10% Niacinamide Booster. I used to be shocked.
Associated: My Full Evaluation of Paula’s Selection 10% Niacinamide Booster
Niacinamide Facet Results
Right here’s the excellent news: niacinamide is tremendous well-tolerated. Like, out of all of the lively components in skincare, it’s one of many best on delicate pores and skin. You possibly can normally use it every single day, with different actives, and morning or evening, with out stressing.
That mentioned (and that is vital) extra isn’t at all times higher. In the event you go too arduous with the proportion (10%+), particularly in case your pores and skin’s on the delicate aspect, you would possibly get:
- Delicate irritation
- Redness
- Itchy little bumps (uncommon, however it occurs)
- The notorious “niacin flush” – a heat, tingling feeling that’s innocent however freaky
If that occurs, don’t panic. Simply cut back. Attempt a decrease share (2–5%), and don’t combine it with 5 different robust actives on the identical evening. Your pores and skin isn’t a lab experiment.
Greatest Niacinamide Picks
Listed below are one of the best skincare merchandise with niacinamide:
- Paula’s Selection Resist 10% Niacinamide Booster ($42.00): It shrinks your pores, hydrates your pores and skin, and brightens the complexion. Plus, it’s stuffed with antioxidants (together with Vitamin C) that can assist you hold these pesky untimely wrinkles at bay, too. Out there at Cult Magnificence, Dermstore, Paula’s Selection, Sephora, and SpaceNK
- The Inkey Listing Niacinamide ($6.99): On high of hydrating niacinamide, it additionally has hyaluronic acid so as to add moisture again into the pores and skin and Squalane to strengthen its protecting barrier. Plus, it brightens pores and skin and helps stop wrinkles. Out there at Boots, Cult Magnificence, The Inkey Listing
- The Strange Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% (£5.00): Appropriate just for oily pores and skin, it reduces extra oil, helps deal with zits, and reduces redness and irritation. Out there at Magnificence Bay, Boots, Cult Magnificence, Sephora, SpaceNK, The Strange, and Ulta
Azelaic Acid VS Niacinamide: Which One Is Higher For Zits?
Brief reply? Azelaic acid would possibly win this spherical. However niacinamide’s nonetheless pulling weight.
Right here’s the deal: Azelaic acid doesn’t simply calm zits. It goes straight for the micro organism that trigger it and tells them to pack their baggage. It additionally helps unclog pores and reduces keratin buildup (aka the stuff that results in whiteheads, blackheads, and cystic surprise-attacks). One research discovered that 15% azelaic acid gel was simply as efficient for mild-to-moderate zits as 5% benzoyl peroxide and 0.05% tretinoin, however with manner fewer negative effects.
Niacinamide, however, is like zits’s chill mediator. It doesn’t kill micro organism, however it calms irritation (so these huge offended spots don’t look so… volcanic), and it helps regulate oil manufacturing. Consider it because the zits prevention plan, not the assault mode. One research confirmed that 4% niacinamide labored simply as nicely as 1% clindamycin (a topical antibiotic) for inflammatory zits, with no antibiotic resistance or dryness. PubMed research hyperlink
Use azelaic acid if:
- You’re breaking out with bumps and leftover marks
- You need one thing stronger however not irritating
- You’re not getting sufficient from “light” merchandise anymore
Use niacinamide if:
- Your zits is hormonal, gentle, or linked to grease manufacturing
- You’re already utilizing stronger actives and want one thing supportive
- You need an on a regular basis anti-inflammatory helper
Verdict: Use azelaic acid to scrub up the chaos. Use niacinamide to maintain it from coming again.
Azelaic Acid VS Niacinamide: Which One Is Higher For Hyperpigmentation (Darkish Spots)?
Darkish spots (aka hyperpigmentation) could be annoying as hell. Particularly when the breakout is gone however the spot stays like a foul reminiscence.
Niacinamide helps stop melanin from being transferred to the floor of the pores and skin. It’s type of like intercepting a textual content earlier than it will get delivered. Your pores and skin’s like, “Nope, not exhibiting this pigment right now.” It brightens, fades unevenness, and works slowly and gently over time. In a single research, 5% niacinamide considerably improved hyperpigmentation and pores and skin tone after simply 4 weeks.
Azelaic acid, although? It blocks the enzyme tyrosinase, the one your pores and skin makes use of to make melanin within the first place. That’s deeper-level motion. It’s particularly good for cussed pigmentation, post-inflammatory marks (like after zits), and even melasma. A 20% azelaic acid cream was proven to be as efficient as 4% hydroquinone (a literal prescription brightener) in treating melasma, however with manner fewer negative effects.
Use azelaic acid if:
- Your darkish spots are deep, cussed, or hormonal (melasma)
- You need one thing that works with out bleaching or irritation
- You’re already utilizing sunscreen each day (which you have to be anyway, tbh)
Use niacinamide if:
- You’re simply beginning out and wish to gently even out tone
- Your pigmentation is gentle and post-acne
- You’re delicate to stronger components and want a slow-and-steady choice
Verdict: Azelaic acid is the heavy lifter for cussed spots. Niacinamide’s your light, constant backup singer.
Azelaic Acid VS Niacinamide: Which One Is Higher For Rosacea (& Delicate Pores and skin)?
Let’s simply say it: most skincare isn’t made with delicate pores and skin in thoughts.
Azelaic acid is among the few lively components that really has a prescription model particularly for rosacea. It doesn’t simply calm redness. It helps shrink the infected blood vessels and clears these little under-the-skin pink bumps that nothing else touches. Research have proven that 15% azelaic acid gel considerably reduces inflammatory lesions and visual redness in rosacea sufferers, and it’s typically simpler than metronidazole, a standard prescription.
Niacinamide, although, is sort of a each day hug to your pores and skin barrier. It reduces trans-epidermal water loss (a elaborate manner of claiming it helps your pores and skin keep hydrated) and boosts ceramide manufacturing. It doesn’t go as deep as azelaic acid in treating rosacea, however it’s an ideal match for pores and skin that’s reactive, dry, or simply uninterested in being irritated. Scientific trials have proven that 2%–5% niacinamide improves hydration, reduces irritation, and will increase pores and skin resilience over time.
Use azelaic acid if:
- You might have rosacea-prone pores and skin
- You get flushing, burning, or random irritation flare-ups
- Your pores and skin hates all the things, however nonetheless wants one thing to assist
Use niacinamide if:
- You’re simply typically delicate and wish to strengthen your barrier
- You get redness from climate, over-exfoliating, or stress
- You want a chilled ingredient that gained’t trigger drama
Verdict: Azelaic acid is your “I’m having a rosacea flare-up” firefighter. Niacinamide is your each day moisturizer’s dependable finest buddy.
Azelaic Acid vs Niacinamide: Which One Is Higher for Zits Scars?
Let’s clear this up: If by “zits scars” you imply darkish marks left behind after breakouts (aka post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation)? Each azelaic acid and niacinamide might help. However in case you’re speaking about textured, indented scars, the sort that appear to be dents or raised bumps? Neither of those components will do a lot. Topicals can fade pigment. They’ll’t rebuild collagen deep within the pores and skin. For that, you’re issues like microneedling, lasers, or prescription retinoids.
Verdict: Neither azelaic acid nor niacinamide will repair indented zits scars.
Azelaic Acid vs Niacinamide: Which One Is Higher for Oily Pores and skin?
Let’s be actual: oily pores and skin is exhausting. You wash your face and two hours later it’s like your T-zone is auditioning to fry an egg. Your make-up doesn’t keep put, your pores appear to be craters, and in case you skip your routine for even one evening? Increase! Breakout metropolis. So what’s higher for managing all that? Azelaic acid or niacinamide?
Niacinamide is the true MVP right here. It doesn’t simply deal with oil. It really helps scale back how a lot oil your pores and skin produces within the first place. Research have proven that utilizing a 2% niacinamide formulation can considerably decrease sebum excretion charges in individuals with oily pores and skin.
Translation: you’ll look much less shiny, have fewer clogged pores, and your pores and skin gained’t really feel like a slip-and-slide by lunchtime. Bonus: niacinamide helps tighten up the look of pores (no, it doesn’t shrink them – nothing actually does – however they appear smaller when there’s much less gunk and oil stretching them out).
Azelaic acid, however, doesn’t immediately regulate oil, however it does assist with what occurs due to the oil.
In case your oiliness comes with breakouts, clogged pores, or bumpy texture, azelaic acid gently exfoliates and helps hold these pores clear. It’s anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and wonderful for greasy, acne-prone pores and skin. Simply don’t count on it to decelerate oil manufacturing itself -that’s not its factor.
Use azelaic acid if:
- Your oiliness comes with whiteheads, blackheads, or breakouts
- You want one thing to clear pores and calm irritation
- You’re oily and acne-prone
Use niacinamide if:
- You wish to scale back oiliness on the root
- You’re searching for much less shine, smaller-looking pores, and higher barrier perform
- You’re oily but in addition delicate and wish one thing ultra-gentle
Verdict: Niacinamide wins for precise oil management. Azelaic acid’s nice for the negative effects of oily pores and skin (breakouts, congestion), however in case you’re uninterested in feeling greasy by midday? Niacinamide’s your lady.
Azelaic Acid vs Niacinamide: Which One Is Higher for Darker Pores and skin Tones?
In the event you’ve received melanin-rich pores and skin, you already know: your pores and skin behaves otherwise – in one of the best and most complex methods. You’re extra vulnerable to hyperpigmentation. Each breakout leaves a mark. And manner too many merchandise both don’t work or straight-up make issues worse. So let’s break down what azelaic acid and niacinamide really do for darker pores and skin tones, and which one deserves a spot in your routine.
Azelaic acid is a large win for deeper pores and skin tones – particularly in case you cope with post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (aka these darkish spots that stick round without end after a breakout or rash). It really works by blocking an enzyme known as tyrosinase, which is concerned in melanin manufacturing. It doesn’t bleach. It doesn’t disrupt your pure tone. It simply stops the overproduction of pigment the place your pores and skin’s been infected. And it does it gently.
One research confirmed that 20% azelaic acid was simply as efficient as 4% hydroquinone in treating melasma (a notoriously cussed kind of pigmentation) with out the tough negative effects hydroquinone is understood for. Additionally: azelaic acid is much less more likely to trigger rebound pigmentation or irritation (darker pores and skin tones are extra reactive to irritation, and irritation can really set off extra pigment).
Niacinamide additionally works on pigmentation, however from a barely totally different angle. It doesn’t block melanin manufacturing. As an alternative, it prevents melanin that’s already been constructed from being transferred to the higher layers of the pores and skin (the place it turns into seen as a darkish spot). It’s slower, subtler, and extra of a prevention software than a remedy for deeper present pigmentation.
In a single scientific research, 5% niacinamide considerably improved hyperpigmentation and tone after 4 weeks, significantly in topics with Fitzpatrick pores and skin sorts III–V. Additionally nice? Niacinamide strengthens the pores and skin barrier, reduces irritation, and works superbly in routines the place you’re layering stronger actives like acids or retinoids. It makes all the things else play nicer.
Use azelaic acid if:
- You’re coping with darkish marks from zits, shaving, or irritation
- You need one thing that fades pigment with out bleaching or irritating
- You’re vulnerable to PIH (post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation) and want one thing efficient however light
Use niacinamide if:
- Your pigmentation is gentle or newer
- You wish to stop new spots whereas enhancing pores and skin tone over time
- You’re utilizing different robust actives and wish one thing to help your barrier
Verdict: Azelaic acid is the heavy-hitter for cussed hyperpigmentation in darker pores and skin tones – with out the danger of over-lightening or irritation. Niacinamide is a good upkeep software, particularly in case you’re engaged on brightening, oil management, or calming irritation in your routine. For lots of melanin-rich pores and skin sorts? The combo is gold. One fades, the opposite protects.
Can I Use Niacinamide And Azelaic Acid Collectively?
Sure. In case your pores and skin is coping with a couple of factor (zits and darkish spots, oiliness and redness), the mixture of azelaic acid and niacinamide can really work higher than utilizing both one by itself.
They don’t cancel one another out. They don’t irritate one another. They usually goal totally different points in a manner that makes them tremendous complementary:
- Azelaic acid clears clogged pores, fights zits, fades pigmentation, and calms irritation
- Niacinamide strengthens your pores and skin barrier, reduces oiliness, evens tone, and helps your pores and skin keep calm and balanced
How To Use Niacinamide And Azelaic Acid Collectively
Okay, so now that we’ve established azelaic acid and niacinamide is a profitable mixture that offers you finest outcomes, right here’s learn how to really use them with out overwhelming your pores and skin or turning your routine right into a science experiment.
LAYERING TIPS
- You possibly can apply niacinamide first if you wish to buffer potential irritation from azelaic acid, particularly in case you’re new to actives or your pores and skin is delicate.
- In case your azelaic acid is in a thicker cream or suspension, apply that after your niacinamide serum. Lightest to heaviest is the final rule.
- Use them as soon as a day to begin. You possibly can construct as much as twice each day in case your pores and skin is loving it.
DON’T MIX WITH
- Sturdy AHAs (like Glycolic Acid or lactic acid) or BHAs (beta-hydroxy acids) in the identical routine (it’s an excessive amount of)
- Retinoids on the identical evening until your pores and skin is used to it
- 1,000,000 different actives. Let this duo do its factor
Associated: Combine And Match: Which Skincare Substances You Shouldn’t Use Collectively
How Lengthy Does It Take to See Outcomes with Azelaic Acid and Niacinamide?
Niacinamide and Azelaic acid are each efficient components, however they’re not miracle staff. Most individuals begin seeing ends in 4 to eight weeks. Nothing instantaneous, however completely well worth the wait.
- Within the first 1–2 weeks: your pores and skin would possibly really feel smoother, however don’t count on main modifications
- By weeks 3–4: chances are you’ll discover much less oil, calmer breakouts, and extra even tone
- By weeks 6–8: darkish spots begin fading, redness goes down, and your pores and skin simply appears… higher
The Backside Line
Two of one of the best skincare components on the market, azelaic acid and niacinamide aren’t attempting to do the actual similar job — and that’s what makes them such an excellent staff. Azelaic acid is your go-to for zits, pigmentation, rosacea, and delicate exfoliation. Niacinamide is your calming, oil-controlling, barrier-strengthening multitasker.
In case your pores and skin is coping with a number of issues directly (which, let’s be sincere, most of us are), the mixture of azelaic acid and niacinamide is an efficient remedy that may cowl far more floor than both one alone. They’re protected to make use of collectively, backed by science, and work finest while you’re constant and affected person. You additionally know what one of the best skincare merchandise with them are, so that you’re all settled for higher outcomes.
About Gio
Hello, I am Gio. I am a no-nonsense, tell-it-like-it-is pores and skin coach and author on a mission that can assist you obtain your finest pores and skin day ever – every single day. I bust skincare myths and debunk advertising jargon that can assist you work out what’s well worth the splurge and what’s finest left on the shelf – utilizing science, not hype. I additionally supply skincare consultations that can assist you create one of the best skincare routine to your distinctive wants.